Relaxer
About Relaxer
A relaxer is a chemical treatment that permanently loosens or straightens curly, coily or kinky hair by changing the internal bonds that give each strand its pattern. It is one of many ways people choose to wear textured hair, and a skilled relaxer specialist treats it as a craft, protecting the scalp and the hair at every step. Most professional relaxers are either lye, based on sodium hydroxide, or no lye, usually based on guanidine or calcium hydroxide, and both are strongly alkaline. Some stylists also offer a texturiser, which softens the curl rather than fully straightening it. Once relaxed, the treated hair stays straight until it is cut off, so future appointments are retouches applied only to the new growth at the roots. Retouches are commonly booked every six to eight weeks, and many professionals prefer longer gaps where the hair allows. The processing itself usually takes around ten to twenty minutes, within an appointment that includes basing the scalp, rinsing, neutralising, conditioning and styling. A mild tingle can happen, but burning is a sign to rinse straight away. There is no downtime, though healthy relaxed hair depends on careful timing, regular conditioning and avoiding overlap onto previously relaxed lengths.
On the day, and after
During the treatment
Your stylist will start by applying a protective base cream to your scalp, hairline, ears and neck. The hair is divided into neat sections, and the relaxer is applied with a brush or the back of a comb, usually starting at the most resistant areas and working towards the hairline, keeping the product just off the scalp. For a retouch, it goes on the new growth only, and the previously relaxed lengths are protected to prevent overlap.
The relaxer is smoothed gently and timed carefully, usually for around ten to twenty minutes, with your stylist checking the curl and your comfort throughout. It is then rinsed thoroughly with warm water, followed by a neutralising shampoo that removes residue and brings the hair back towards its normal pH, often with a colour indicator to confirm it is clear. A deep conditioning or bond protecting treatment usually follows, then styling. Including consultation and styling, plan for an appointment of a few hours.
How it feels
Most clients feel little more than the coolness of the base cream and the relaxer being smoothed through the hair. A light tingle can happen, particularly on a sensitive scalp or around the hairline, and many clients feel the warmth of the rinsing water as a relief. A good stylist will ask how you feel throughout.
Burning, stinging or heat on the scalp is not something to wait out. Tell your stylist straight away so the product can be rinsed off, as early rinsing protects your skin. After the treatment your scalp should feel comfortable. Some clients notice slight tenderness for a day, but scabs, soreness that lasts or patches that weep mean the scalp has been irritated, and it is worth getting it checked by a pharmacist or doctor. No lye relaxers are often described as gentler on the scalp, though they still need the same care and they can leave hair feeling drier.
Results and maintenance
Relaxed hair stays straight permanently, so the result lasts until the hair is cut. As new hair grows at the roots in its natural texture, you will book retouches on the new growth only. These are commonly every six to eight weeks, though the timing depends on how fast your hair grows and how much regrowth you are comfortable with, and many stylists and dermatologists favour longer gaps to give hair a rest.
To keep relaxed hair healthy between visits, focus on moisture, gentle detangling, low heat and regular trims. Protect your hair at night with satin or silk. Ask your stylist about strengthening or bond building treatments, and space other chemical services carefully. If you decide to grow out your relaxer, a stylist experienced in transitioning can help you blend the two textures with care until the relaxed ends are trimmed away.
Before and after your appointment
Before your appointment
Book a consultation first, especially if you are new to relaxers or changing stylist. Your stylist will look at your hair's texture, density, porosity and condition, check your scalp and ask about any previous colour, perm, keratin or relaxer treatments, as some chemicals do not combine safely. A strand test on a small hidden section shows how your hair will respond and helps choose the right strength and timing.
In the days before your appointment, avoid scratching, brushing hard or combing vigorously at the scalp, and skip washing for a day or two if your stylist suggests it, as natural oils help protect the skin. Do not use hair removal products, scrubs or exfoliants near the hairline. Tell your stylist about any cuts, spots, sunburn or tenderness on your scalp, as the treatment should wait until the skin has healed. If you colour your hair, plan the timing with your stylist so treatments are spaced safely.
Aftercare
Relaxed hair is strong when it is well cared for, but it needs moisture and gentle handling. Your stylist will give you a routine for your hair, and these points help most clients:
- Use a moisturising, sulphate free shampoo and a rich conditioner, and deep condition regularly.
- Alternate moisture and protein treatments as your stylist advises to keep hair balanced.
- Keep heat styling low and use a heat protector every time.
- Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase or wrap your hair in a satin scarf.
- Trim ends regularly to keep the lengths healthy.
- Avoid tight ponytails and buns that put stress on the hairline.
Do not relax your hair at home between salon visits, and wait until your next retouch rather than going over the same area again. If your scalp feels sore, itchy or tender after a treatment, contact your stylist and see a pharmacist or doctor if it does not settle.
There is no downtime. You will leave with your hair styled and can carry on with your day straight away. In the first few days, give your hair and scalp a gentle start: avoid tight styles, very hot tools and scratching the scalp, and follow the washing and conditioning plan your stylist gives you.
If you had any tingling during the treatment, a soothing, fragrance free scalp product recommended by your stylist can help, and the scalp should feel normal within a day or two. Wait until your next planned retouch before using any other chemical treatment, including permanent colour, unless your stylist has planned a safe sequence for you. If you swim, rinse your hair and condition well afterwards, as chlorine can be drying for relaxed hair. Any scalp soreness that lingers, or hair that feels gummy or breaks easily, should be shown to your stylist, and to your doctor if the scalp is affected.
Safety and medical considerations
Safety essentials
Relaxers are strongly alkaline, and in the wrong hands they can burn the scalp, damage the eyes and cause breakage. The US Food and Drug Administration has received complaints of scalp irritation and hair breakage from both lye and no lye products, and stresses following the directions and never leaving the product on longer than stated. In the US and some Canadian provinces, chemical services usually need a cosmetology licence; elsewhere, including the UK and Ireland, look for formal hairdressing qualifications and specialist textured hair training.
A good professional bases the scalp every time, applies relaxer only to new growth on a retouch, times processing precisely and rinses thoroughly before neutralising. They wear gloves, protect your eyes, work in a ventilated space and use professional products with full instructions. They never relax hair that has been treated with an incompatible chemical, and they will not relax and apply permanent colour at the same time. The FDA also advises keeping relaxers well away from children, as swallowing them can cause serious burns.
Medical considerations
Check with your doctor or dermatologist before relaxing if you have a scalp condition such as psoriasis, eczema or seborrhoeic dermatitis, any hair loss or thinning, or a history of reactions to hair products. Do not relax hair if your scalp has cuts, abrasions, sores or sunburn. If you are having or recovering from chemotherapy, or take medication that affects your skin or hair, ask your care team first.
During pregnancy, guidance from the UK charity NCT notes that studies found no increased chance of premature birth or low birth weight linked to relaxer use, and suggests asking for a test first; talk to your midwife or doctor if you have questions. Research on relaxers and long term health is ongoing. Large studies in the US have found an association between frequent, long term use of chemical straighteners and a higher risk of uterine cancer. These studies show a link rather than proof of cause, did not identify specific products, and uterine cancer remains uncommon. If you are concerned, discuss it with your doctor.
Patch testing
Yes. A strand test is recommended before every new relaxer client and whenever you change product or strength. Your stylist applies the relaxer to a small hidden section of hair, times it and checks the result to confirm the hair can take the treatment, choose the right strength and judge the processing time. This is especially important if your hair has been coloured, previously relaxed or treated with keratin or another chemical.
Many manufacturers also recommend a skin sensitivity test, usually 48 hours before the service, and your stylist should follow the instructions for the specific product used. Ask for a test if you have sensitive skin, a history of allergies or reactions to hair products, or if you are pregnant, as skin can react differently at this time. A test does not remove the need for careful scalp protection on the day, and any burning during treatment means the product should be rinsed straight away, whatever the earlier test showed.
Knowing a good practitioner
Green flags
An excellent relaxer specialist respects your hair and your choice to wear it relaxed. You can expect:
- A thorough consultation covering your hair history, scalp and goals.
- A strand test and any skin test the product requires.
- A protective base on your scalp, hairline and ears every time.
- Precise sectioning and application only to new growth on retouches.
- Careful timing, regular comfort checks and rinsing at the first sign of burning.
- Thorough rinsing and a neutralising shampoo with a colour indicator.
- Conditioning or bond protection to finish, and a home care plan.
- Honest advice about spacing chemical treatments and the health of your hair.
Red flags
A relaxer should never be rushed. Signs that something is wrong include:
- Burning, stinging or pain that is brushed off as normal or left to carry on.
- No base cream on the scalp, hairline and ears.
- Relaxer applied over previously relaxed hair on a retouch.
- Processing left beyond the time stated on the product.
- No strand test, no questions about previous treatments or colour on the same day.
- Products with no label or instructions, or kits meant for home use.
- Scabs, weeping, blisters or bald patches after a treatment.
If relaxer gets into your eyes, rinse with plenty of clean water at once and get urgent medical help. If your scalp blisters, weeps or stays painful, rinse with cool water and see a doctor or pharmacist promptly.
Questions to ask
Asking these questions will help you feel confident in your stylist and your treatment.
- Do you specialise in relaxers and textured hair?
- Which relaxer do you recommend for my hair, lye or no lye, and why?
- Will you do a strand test, and does this product need a skin test?
- How do you protect my scalp and stop the relaxer overlapping onto relaxed hair?
- How long will the relaxer be on my hair?
- How often should I book a retouch?
- Can I colour my hair as well, and how should we space treatments?
Frequently asked questions
How long does a relaxer last?
A relaxer permanently straightens the hair it is applied to, so treated lengths stay straight until they are cut off. Your new growth will come through in its natural texture, which is why most people book a retouch on the roots every six to eight weeks or longer. How often you go depends on your growth rate and the look you like.
What is the difference between lye and no lye relaxers?
Lye relaxers use sodium hydroxide and work quickly, which suits very resistant hair but can be harder on the scalp. No lye relaxers usually use guanidine or calcium hydroxide and are often gentler on the scalp, though they can leave hair feeling drier. Both are strongly alkaline and need expert application, a protected scalp and thorough rinsing.
Do I need a patch test before a relaxer?
A strand test is recommended for every new client and whenever the product changes, so your stylist can check how your hair responds and choose the right strength and timing. Many manufacturers also recommend a skin test around 48 hours before. Always ask for one if you have sensitive skin, allergies or are pregnant.
Is it safe to relax my hair while pregnant?
The UK charity NCT notes that studies found no increased chance of premature birth or low birth weight linked to relaxer use during pregnancy. Skin can react differently in pregnancy, so ask for a test first and make sure your stylist knows. If you have any concerns or a sensitive scalp, talk to your midwife or doctor before booking.
Are hair relaxers linked to cancer?
Large studies in the US have found an association between frequent, long term use of chemical straighteners and a higher risk of uterine cancer. They show a link rather than proof of cause, did not name specific products, and uterine cancer is still uncommon. Research is ongoing, and US regulators are reviewing formaldehyde in straightening products. Talk to your doctor if you are concerned.
Can I colour my hair after a relaxer?
Yes, with careful planning. Relaxing and colouring at the same appointment, or close together, raises the risk of dryness and breakage. The US FDA suggests that relaxed hair is best paired with gentler semi permanent colour. Your stylist can plan a safe gap between services and recommend products that suit your hair.
This guide is general information, not medical advice. Speak to a qualified practitioner, and to your GP if you have a medical condition, before booking.