Skin Glossary

Glossary

Skin types and science

Skin therapists and skincare brands use lots of terms that can be confusing. This glossary explains the words you will hear in a facial consultation and on skincare labels, so you can make confident choices for your skin.

  • Skin type

    The way your skin naturally behaves, usually described as dry, oily, combination or balanced. Your skin type can shift with age, hormones, climate and the seasons.

  • Dry vs dehydrated

    Dry skin makes less oil and can feel rough or tight all the time. Dehydrated skin lacks water, and any skin type, even oily skin, can become dehydrated. Dry skin needs nourishing oils and creams, while dehydrated skin needs hydration.

  • Sensitive skin

    Skin that reacts easily with stinging, burning, tightness or redness. Read our Sensitive Skin Facial guide.

  • Skin barrier

    The outermost layer of your skin, which keeps moisture in and irritants out. When it is healthy, skin feels comfortable. When it is weakened, skin can feel tight, sting or look red.

  • Sebum

    The natural oil your skin produces to keep it soft and protected. Too much can feel greasy, and too little can feel dry.

  • Skin pH

    A measure of how acidic or alkaline your skin is. Healthy skin is slightly acidic, which helps protect the skin barrier, so very harsh, alkaline cleansers can leave skin feeling tight.

  • Fitzpatrick skin type

    A scale from type I to type VI that describes how skin responds to sun, from always burning to rarely burning. Skin therapists use it to choose safe treatment settings, especially for lasers and peels.

  • Undertone

    The subtle warm, cool or neutral tone beneath the surface of your skin. It helps when choosing foundation shades and hair colour.

  • Pores

    Tiny openings where hair grows and oil reaches the surface. Pores do not open and close with hot or cold water, but keeping skin clean and balanced can help them look smaller.

Skincare terms

  • Actives

    Ingredients that are included to make a specific change to the skin, such as exfoliating acids, retinoids or vitamin C. They are best introduced slowly, one at a time.

  • Exfoliation

    Removing dead skin cells from the surface. Physical exfoliation uses a scrub, cloth or tool, while chemical exfoliation uses acids or enzymes to loosen dead cells.

  • Double cleanse

    Cleansing twice in the evening: first with an oil or balm to lift makeup and sunscreen, then with a gentle cleanser to clean the skin itself.

  • Purging

    A short spell of extra breakouts when you start a product that speeds up skin renewal, such as a retinoid. It usually appears in your usual breakout areas and settles within a few weeks. Breakouts in new areas, or that do not settle, may be a reaction instead.

  • Non comedogenic

    A label meaning a product is formulated to be less likely to block pores.

  • Fragrance free

    Products made without added fragrance, often preferred for sensitive or reactive skin.

Sun protection

  • SPF

    Sun protection factor, a measure of how well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays, the main cause of sunburn. Dermatologists commonly recommend SPF 30 or higher for daily use.

  • Broad spectrum

    A sunscreen that protects against both UVB and UVA rays. UVA rays contribute to pigmentation and skin ageing.

  • PA rating

    A rating used on many Asian sunscreens to show UVA protection, shown with plus signs. More plus signs mean more UVA protection.

  • Mineral and chemical sunscreen

    Mineral sunscreens use zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. Chemical sunscreens use filters that absorb UV. Both protect well, and the best sunscreen is the one you enjoy wearing every day.

Popular skincare trends

  • Glass skin

    A smooth, luminous, deeply hydrated complexion that looks almost translucent, inspired by Korean skincare.

  • Slugging

    Applying a thin layer of an occlusive balm, such as petroleum jelly, as the last step at night to lock in moisture. It suits dry skin, but can feel heavy on oily or breakout prone skin.

  • Skin cycling

    Rotating your evening routine over several nights, for example an exfoliant night, a retinoid night and recovery nights, to get results with less irritation.

  • Skin flooding

    Layering several hydrating products on damp skin, then sealing them in with a moisturiser.

  • Skinimalism

    A simpler routine with fewer, well chosen products, letting healthy skin show through.

  • Back facial

    A facial designed for the back, a common spot for breakouts. Read our Back Facial guide.

If your skin is reacting, flaking or breaking out and you are unsure why, speak to a skin therapist, pharmacist or dermatologist.